Dear Grace, I’m 53 years old and passionate about make-up. I’d like to create more definition in my cheekbones and jawline, but what I am doing with my contour colour is no longer working – can you help?
Catherine King – Bath (UK)
Contouring has become such a a popular makeup technique, but as we age our usual methods may no longer be as effective. The gradual loss of collagen and elastin production, coupled with the natural effects of gravity, can give us a less defined jawline and our face shape can change, so the application of make-up should keep up with that.
Strategic make-up applications can work wonders in concealing and minimizing the appearance of one’s jowls, but it’s important to use the correct colour and tools.
As a make-up artist working with several women of a certain age, I use a bronzer quite often to contour and shape the face – however, we need to make sure that it’s not too orangey – so, use a more neutral brown shade, instead. If you have a high forehead, I would also recommend creating a ‘w’ or ‘3’ shape on each side of your face.
Forget the blenders and sponges: the best way to apply a cheek contour is with a traditional brush. Start by applying the product at the forehead and then blend it upwards and towards your temple brushing into the hairline so there is no demarcation line. In this way, you can create a seamless and natural look. Then bring the brush down the side of the face and contour under the cheekbones in line with the outside corner of your eye – if you take the contour further in (like we did in the 70s), it will create a heavy effect.
Also, because there is a natural shadow along the jawline the contour will not show, it’s crucial to draw the brush under the jawline and then blend under the chin and down the front of the neck. You know, the sun never shines under the chin, so the area becomes very white and appears heavy. By putting a little bronzer there it lifts the chin.
Remember, the jaw contour should be the last contour we apply. So if you contour other areas of the face such as the forehead, cheeks, or nose, finish with your jaw area. Using the leftover product on your brushes will provide a stunning, seamless effect that doesn’t go overboard.
As always, less is more when it comes to contouring. So, never forget to start with a small amount of product and build it up gradually to avoid an unnatural look.
Have you tried any of these techniques? Let us know in the comments.